Squalane vs. Squalene: Choosing the Right Moisture Boost
When it comes to hydration, skincare ingredients like squalane and squalene often steal the spotlight. These two powerhouse ingredients share similar names and are both praised for their intense moisturizing properties, but they aren’t exactly the same. Let’s break down the science behind squalane and squalene, their differences, and why each can bring unique benefits to your skincare routine.
What Is Squalene?
Squalene (with an "e") is a natural lipid produced by our own skin, making up about 10-12% of our skin’s oil. It’s part of our natural sebum and contributes to keeping skin hydrated, soft, and protected from external irritants. However, as we age, our natural production of squalene decreases, which can lead to dryness, fine lines, and a compromised skin barrier.
Squalene is commonly sourced from plant oils, such as olive oil, amaranth seed, or sugarcane, or from certain fish liver oils (notably shark liver, though this is less common in modern skincare due to ethical concerns). However, pure squalene in its natural form is highly unstable and oxidizes quickly when exposed to air, which means it doesn’t last long on the skin and can lose effectiveness over time.
Enter Squalane: The Stabilized Hydrator
Squalane (with an "a") is the more stable, hydrogenated version of squalene. By adding hydrogen atoms, squalane becomes highly stable and non-oxidative, giving it a longer shelf life and making it ideal for use in skincare products. Squalane is colorless, odorless, and non-greasy, which makes it a dream for sensitive and acne-prone skin types that crave hydration without heaviness. It’s also incredibly lightweight and mimics the skin’s natural oils, which means it absorbs quickly and leaves skin feeling soft and moisturized without clogging pores.
Key Differences Between Squalene and Squalane
To help you understand which one is right for you, here’s a quick breakdown of the key differences:
Stability: Squalene is highly unstable and oxidizes quickly, making it less practical for long-term use. Squalane, however, is stable and has a longer shelf life.
Source and Ethics: Modern squalane is usually plant-based (often derived from olives or sugarcane) and is vegan-friendly. Squalene, however, was historically derived from shark liver oil, though plant-based options are available today.
Skin Feel: Squalane is lighter and absorbs faster than squalene, which is often thicker and can leave a more oily feel on the skin.
Use in Skincare: Due to its stability, squalane is preferred in skincare products, as it can better maintain its benefits over time.
Benefits of Using Squalane in Your Routine
So, what can squalane do for your skin? Let’s take a look at the benefits:
Deep Hydration: Squalane penetrates deeply into the skin, providing long-lasting hydration without feeling heavy or sticky.
Enhanced Skin Barrier: Squalane helps support and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier, which can be weakened by environmental factors or harsh products. A strong skin barrier is essential for keeping moisture in and irritants out.
Reduced Fine Lines: By deeply hydrating, squalane helps plump up the skin, making fine lines and wrinkles less visible. It’s a gentle option for all skin types, even mature or sensitive skin.
Non-Comedogenic: Squalane won’t clog pores, making it a great option for oily or acne-prone skin that still needs moisture.
Antioxidant Properties: Squalane offers some antioxidant protection, helping to fight off free radicals and slow down signs of aging.
Choosing Between Squalane and Squalene
In modern skincare, you’re more likely to see squalane as an ingredient over squalene due to its stability and ease of use. However, here are some tips on choosing the right product and how to make the most of these moisturizers:
For Daily Moisture: Opt for squalane. It’s easy to incorporate into your routine, absorbs quickly, and won’t leave your skin feeling greasy.
If You’re Sensitive or Acne-Prone: Squalane’s non-comedogenic nature makes it ideal for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. It’s lightweight enough that you won’t feel weighed down, even on warmer days or under makeup.
For Ethical Considerations: Look for plant-based squalane to avoid animal-derived squalene. Many brands are now labeling “vegan squalane” or “plant-based squalane” to make this choice easier.
How to Add Squalane to Your Routine
Adding squalane to your routine is easy since it’s versatile and works well with most other skincare ingredients. Here’s a quick guide:
As a Moisturizer: Apply a few drops of squalane oil to your face after cleansing and applying any serums. It can be used alone or under a moisturizer if you want an extra boost of hydration.
In the Morning and Evening: Squalane is gentle enough for both morning and evening use. For daytime, follow it with sunscreen to lock in moisture and protect your skin.
For Extra Dry Spots: Squalane works great on areas like elbows, cuticles, and even hair! Apply a small amount to these spots to keep them hydrated and smooth.
Mix It In: If you want to upgrade your favorite moisturizer or foundation, mix a drop of squalane oil in for added hydration and a dewy finish.
The Takeaway
Squalane and squalene may have similar names and functions, but squalane is the star of modern skincare thanks to its stability, versatility, and light feel on the skin. Whether you have dry, sensitive, or acne-prone skin, squalane is an excellent moisturizer that mimics your skin’s natural oils while keeping moisture locked in. So, if you’re ready to give your skin a serious hydration boost, look for squalane—it’s the reliable, go-to ingredient that’ll keep your skin soft, smooth, and happy.
